I am in the middle of a busy patch of workshops and lectures at the moment, but before that we went to Thailand for an extended weekend. The visit was facilitated by Harold Furr, ex of UConn and soon to be ex of Mahidol University just outside Bangkok, where he has been working at their Institute of Nutrition. I gave a talk on zinc to the faculty and grad students there. I don't think he is looking for a job, but if you ever want a tour guide, Harold did a wonderful job of welcoming us and laying out options for various things that we might do.

We flew to Bangkok on Sri Lanka Air - we had not heard of it either but I discovered a wonderful package including 4 nights hotel for about $250 each. The flights were fine, as were the hotels. It may a little tricky getting used to flying in the US again. The flight to Bangkok was a little over 2 hours but we got a full meal and I even ate most of it.

Within about 3 hours of landing in Bangkok, we were all having massages. It is an omnipresent cottage industry. There must have been 30 different places within 5 minutes walk of our hotel. I started out with a Thai massage. I was dressed in pajamas, lying on back and front and the massage therapist came at me using all parts of her body to gain mechanical advantage. So lots of elbows and forearms in addition to hands and she was quite happy to sit on me or alongside me - whatever made sense for the kind of manipulation. Sometimes a little intense but basically very good. Other nights I had a foot massage. A little more relaxing and less full contact, focusing below the knees, but then including the arms and hands, shoulders and head at the end. We ended up going back to the same place almost every night. Either kind of massage cost 200 baht, which is a little more than US$6. The one night we did not go there was because Duncan and Elizabeth decided to get adventurous and went for the fish nibbling feet massage. You put your feet in a fish tank for 15 minutes and the little critters nibble off your dead skin. It sounded altogether too ticklish to me so I did not try it.

Bangkok is a big city but totally different from Hong Kong. It has space to grow out and so it has not needed to grow up. It has relatively few tall buildings, but getting around can be tricky, given the distances involved. There are two skytrain lines and also a couple of subway lines, but their coverage is limited. Most people have to use the streets and so they are very congested. Taxis are good and cheap and brightly colored. We were delighted to ride in from the airport in a bright pink taxi.

Bright colors are a continuing theme, particularly evident in the temples. I think they take their Buddhism fairly seriously in Thailand, or at least as seriously as they take anything. It is apparently somewhat different from the Chinese Taoist/Confucian variety and incorporates more Hindu elements. In fact, in addition to the innumerable buddhas, there were many god statues, some complete with multiple limbs, trunks, etc. One day we went on a tour to Ayutthaya, the old capital. Our guide was very good and he pointed out three different ordination ceremonies where people were becoming monks. Apparently most men in Thailand become a monk for a while one of more times in their lives. Ayutthaya was an amazing ruin on an impressive scale. Early European travelers there described it as far in advance of London or Paris. Unfortunately, a Burmese invasion put paid to it and the capital was reestablished in Bangkok.

Another thing that interested me about Thailand was how unashamedly monarchist they appeared to be. The king is referred to as His Majesty, with big portraits everywhere. There were many parallels with my home country. Both have very long serving monarchs in their 80s, who have been on the throne for almost 60 years. Both have crown princes, with significantly less popularity. Both are really just figureheads, with real political power resting elsewhere. It seemed to me that the Thai king is more genuinely popular and probably better connected to his people. A little more active and involved and less aloof.

Things were disturbed politically while we were there by the decision from the Supreme Court to confiscate a large part of the resources of the ex-premier, Thaksin, who was deposed by the military, I think 3 years ago. Military coups are a bad idea, but this court case seemed pretty clear as he was making billions from the telecommunications industry while he was prime minister. Despite his corruption he remains very popular with the rural people and so they, the so-called redshirts, are protesting and demonstrating and demanding that the government step down. Apparently, their party has won every election in recent memory. Fortunately for us, they took a few days to get organized and so it is happening now rather than when we were there.

It would seem almost sinful to not say something about the food and the markets, since they are such important and enjoyable features. But I think I have written long enough, so if you want to know more, drop me an email and ask.